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Cordillera Blanca

Nevado Huandoy, the second highest in Cordillera Blanca, is located N of Nevado Huascaran in the Quebrada Llanganuco area. The four summits of the mountain (6395m, 6356m, 6070m and 6000m) had been climbed several times, the Desmaison 1976 Route to Huandoy Sur is maybe the hardest ever done there. Nevado Pisco in the E side, considered by some as the fifth Huandoy, is a two summit mountain, both of them 5750 meters high.

Evening in Yanapaccha Huandoy The four summits Pisco Oeste and Este
Nevado Pisco

Alpamayo is a 5947 meters mountain in the North of the Cordillera Blanca, Peru. Considered by many as the most beautiful mountain in the world, Alpamayo has two possible approach routes. The southern (regular) route by quebradas Santa Cruz and Arhuaycocha and the northern route, followed by the first Franco-Belgian ascensionists in 1951, by Quebrada Los Cedros. At the present time the most popular way to the summit is the Ferrari Route (350 meters, 60°-75°, AD+). The pictures down were taken during the climb I did with Guillermo Mejia in 1996.

Laguna Jatuncocha Nevado Quitaraju Quebrada Arhuaycocha Moraine Camp Nevado Quitaraju
The Cordillera Blanca Climbing Alpamayo The Ferrari Route In the summit The NW Face

Chacraraju is a 6112 meters peak at the end of Quebrada Demanda in Cordillera Blanca, Peru. This mountain is one of the most difficult to climb in the Andes and it was not until 1956 that a party of climbers, leaded by Lionel Terray, made the first ascent of the two summits following the ridge line. At present most climbers prefer to climb the mountain by the South Face shown in the pictures.

Chacraraju from Yanapaccha Chacraraju Chacraraju South Face Chacraraju and Pisco

Huamashraju is a 5400 meters mountain located fifteen kilometers East of the city of Huaraz in Peru. Less visited than most of the mountains in Cordillera Blanca this peak is good for aclimatization and getting to the top takes only two days and one night from Huaraz.

Nevado Huamashraju Laguna Huamashraju Coming back from the summit Huamashraju from the moraine
Cashan Oeste Quebrada Shallap

Maparaju is a 5326 meters mountain located twenty five kilometers NE of Huaraz. Maparaju is a three day mountain usually climbed in a single push from Base Camp (4300 m). Even though it is posible to spend the first night at Base Camp, the second night in a Morraine Camp (4800 m) and go up to the summit and come back to Huaraz during the third day. I took the pictures in August 2007.

Nevado Maparaju Nevado Cayesh Nevado Cayesh Nevado Maparaju Nevado Chinchey
Nevado Tumarinaraju Nevado San Juan Nevado Ranrapalca Nevado Cayesh Maparaju summit

Vallunaraju is a 5686 meters mountain located in the Quebrada Llaca, some fifteen kilometers NE of the city of Huaraz. The route up the SW face is easy to climb and good for taking pictures and get acclimatized to the high altitude. I took the photos in July 2004, it was an enjoyable climb.

The Moraine Camp Nevado Huantsan The southern slopes The western slopes
The two summits From the col Up to the col In the summit
Looking to the E Looking to the NE

Nevado Yanapaccha is an easy to climb 5400 meters mountain at the end of Quebrada Demanda in the Laguna Llanganuco area. The regular approach route follows the footpath in Quebrada Demanda. Starting the approach from Laguna Morococha on the East side of the mountain is better, we had to walk only three hours to get the western glacier of Yanapaccha.

The W glacier The S summit The N summit The line ridge
The N summit On the ridge On the glacier The N summit
The S summit Leaving the mountain

The upper part of Quebrada Llanganuco is also known by the name of Quebrada Demanda, the starting point to get there is the city of Yungay in the hearth of the Callejon de Huaylas. The area is one of the most visited all over the Cordillera Blanca, the highest peaks there are Huascaran (6746m), Huandoy (6395m), Chopicalqui (6354m), Chacraraju (6112m) and Pisco (5750m), maybe the most climbed mountain in the range.

Nevado Huascaran Nevado Chopicalqui Nevado Huascaran Nevado Huascaran
Cebollapampa
Cordillera Huayhuash

The pictures were taken during a trail I did with Miguel Muņoz over the western slopes of the Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru. From the town of Chiquian we went to the South camping in Laguna Jahuacocha, Diablo Mudo Pass, proximities of Huayllapa town and Laguna Viconga before getting to the town of Cajatambo. Even though we believed that hiring porters and donkeys would not be necessary for a five days trail, I have to confess that carrying 40 pounds all day long in such slopes could be a bit hard.

Rondoy and Jirishanca Rondoy and Jahuacocha Yerupaja and Jahuacocha Jahuacocha and Solteracocha Trail to Diablo Mudo
Diablo Mudo Pass Punta Cuyoc Icefall in Punta Cuyoc Quebrada Pumarinri Town of Cajatambo
Central Andes

Nevado Rajuntay, 5412 meters high, is the highest peak in Cordillera La Viuda, near the city of Lima in Peru. Several limenian parties of climbers attempt to climb the mountain but only a few of them succed. Rajuntay is special for some climbers in Lima that consider it as an emblematic mountain. These pictures were taken during an ascent I did with Richard Hidalgo in the nineties.

Climbing to the glacier The wall we climbed An ice cave We climbed ensemble Rajuntay NW Face
The N nidge and the summit In the summit The third rappel Rajuntay from the W Leaving the mountain