Nevado Huandoy, the second highest in
Cordillera Blanca, is located N of Nevado Huascaran in the Quebrada Llanganuco area. The four
summits of the mountain (6395m, 6356m, 6070m and 6000m) had been climbed several times, the
Desmaison 1976 Route to Huandoy Sur is maybe the hardest ever done there. Nevado Pisco in the
E side, considered by some as the fifth Huandoy, is a two summit mountain, both
of them 5750 meters high.
+ Nevado Alpamayo
Alpamayo is a 5947 meters mountain in the North of
the Cordillera Blanca, Peru. Considered by many as the most beautiful mountain in the world, Alpamayo has two
possible approach routes. The southern (regular) route by quebradas Santa Cruz and Arhuaycocha and the northern
route, followed by the first Franco-Belgian ascensionists in 1951, by Quebrada Los Cedros. At the present time
the most popular way to the summit is the Ferrari Route (350 meters, 60°-75°, AD+). The pictures down were taken
during the climb I did with Guillermo Mejia in 1996.
+ Nevado Chacraraju
Chacraraju is a 6112 meters peak at the end of Quebrada
Demanda in Cordillera Blanca, Peru. This mountain is one of the most difficult to climb in the Andes and it was
not until 1956 that a party of climbers, leaded by Lionel Terray, made the first ascent of the two summits
following the ridge line. At present most climbers prefer to climb the mountain by the South Face shown in the pictures.
+ Nevado Huamashraju
Huamashraju is a 5400 meters mountain located fifteen
kilometers East of the city of Huaraz in Peru. Less visited than most of the mountains in Cordillera Blanca this
peak is good for aclimatization and getting to the top takes only two days and one night from Huaraz.
+ Nevado Maparaju
Maparaju is a 5326 meters mountain located twenty five
kilometers NE of Huaraz. Maparaju is a three day mountain usually climbed in a single push from Base Camp (4300 m).
Even though it is posible to spend the first night at Base Camp, the second night in a Morraine Camp (4800 m) and
go up to the summit and come back to Huaraz during the third day. I took the pictures in August 2007.
+ Nevado Vallunaraju
Vallunaraju is a 5686 meters mountain located in
the Quebrada Llaca, some fifteen kilometers NE of the city of Huaraz. The route up the SW face is easy to
climb and good for taking pictures and get acclimatized to the high altitude. I took the photos in July 2004,
it was an enjoyable climb.
+ Nevado Yanapaccha
Nevado Yanapaccha is an easy to climb 5400 meters
mountain at the end of Quebrada Demanda in the Laguna Llanganuco area. The regular approach route follows
the footpath in Quebrada Demanda. Starting the approach from Laguna Morococha on the East side of the mountain
is better, we had to walk only three hours to get the western glacier of Yanapaccha.
+ Quebrada Llanganuco
The upper part of Quebrada Llanganuco is also known by
the name of Quebrada Demanda, the starting point to get there is the city of Yungay in the hearth of the Callejon
de Huaylas. The area is one of the most visited all over the Cordillera Blanca, the highest peaks there are
Huascaran (6746m), Huandoy (6395m), Chopicalqui (6354m), Chacraraju (6112m) and Pisco (5750m), maybe the most
climbed mountain in the range.
Cordillera Huayhuash
+ Huayhuash Trail
The pictures were taken during a trail I did with
Miguel Muņoz over the western slopes of the Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru. From the town of Chiquian we went to
the South camping in Laguna Jahuacocha, Diablo Mudo Pass, proximities of Huayllapa town and Laguna Viconga
before getting to the town of Cajatambo. Even though we believed that hiring porters and donkeys would not
be necessary for a five days trail, I have to confess that carrying 40 pounds all day long in such slopes
could be a bit hard.
Central Andes
+ Nevado Rajuntay
Nevado Rajuntay, 5412 meters high, is the highest
peak in Cordillera La Viuda, near the city of Lima in Peru. Several limenian parties of climbers attempt to
climb the mountain but only a few of them succed. Rajuntay is special for some climbers in Lima that consider
it as an emblematic mountain. These pictures were taken during an ascent I did with Richard Hidalgo in the
nineties.